What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a natural compound derived from the psoralea corylifolia plant with potential therapeutic properties [1]. This plant grown in India, has been a component of Chinese and Indian Ayurvedic medicine for many years. When used topically, Bakuchiol improves photoaging, reduces wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Significantly, Bakuchiol is better tolerated than retinol, making it a great alternative for sensitive skin [2]. It also enhances skin elasticity and firmness, making it an attractive choice for skincare [3].
What does Bakuchiol do?
Bakuchiol works similarly to retinol, improving photoaging and hyperpigmentation. It's a functional analogue of retinol, inducing similar gene expression in the skin [2].
A recent study in the British Journal of Dermatology concluded that following a 12-week study individuals using Bakuchiol saw improvements such as:
- A more even skin tone [4]
- A reduction in the appearance of fine lines [5]
- Reduction in dryness of irritation.
- Speeding up of skin cell turnover [3].
Is Bakuchiol better than retinol?
Bakuchiol has been shown to be as effective as retinol with less side effects. Retinol is a well established skin treatment, derived from vitamin A and often described as an ‘anti-ageing’ elixir [6]. When used consistently, it can increase skin cell turnover reducing wrinkles and fine lines. However, it is often unsuitable for sensitive skin and can cause redness, dry skin and flaking. Importantly, as it can lead to increased levels of vitamin A in the body it is considered a risk for pregnant women, as it can be considered teratogenic - or at risk of causing birth defects [7]. Additionally, retinol is not recommended to be used during the day due to its photo-sensitive nature [6].
Bakuchiol serum may be a promising alternative to this, for those that retinol is unsuitable for or those who simply prefer a more gentle approach in their skincare.
Is Bakuchiol as effective as retinol?
While it has been suggested that Bakuchiol works more slowly than Retinol, a 2018 study assessing Bakuchiol’s ability to decrease wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, reported that Bakuchiol is as effective as retinol [2]. Here the participants used bakuchiol 0·5% cream twice daily or retinol 0·5% cream daily, noting that retinol users reported more scaling of their skin and stinging.
Additionally, unlike retinol Bakuchiol has not been reported to negatively interact with other skincare ingredients, allowing you to layer it with any of your favourite products! [8]
How to use Bakuchiol
As of currently, the bakuchiol available is applied topically as a serum or lotion with between 0.25-0.5% being suggested as the sweet spot for an effective treatment.
Summary: Bakuchiol pros and cons
Bakuchiol is a promising retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties however more research is needed. Studies show it's effective in reducing photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and redness, with fewer side effects than retinol. However, as most of the studies performed have been either on a small number of participants or industry funded, more research is needed to fully understand its efficacy compared to retinol. Crucially, whilst it may seem an attractive alternative for expectant mothers, no clinical trials have currently been conducted on pregnant or breastfeeding women, so discuss with a clinician before adding any new products to your routine.